פרסום // מאמר: יינות גבול: טרואר חוצה טריטוריה (דניאל מונטרסקו)

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Border Wines: Terroir across Contested Territory

Gastronomica: The Journal of Critical Food Studies, 2017, 17(4), 127-140.
University of California Press

Etymologically related, the concepts of terroir and territoriality display divergent cultural histories. While one designates the palatable characteristics of place as a branded story of geographic distinction (goût de terroir), the other imbues the soil with political meaning, defendable boundaries, and collective entitlement. This research traces the production of eno-locality in contested spaces across political borders. Tracing the ascent of terroir as an organizing principle for the global wine culture and food industry, I examine the intersection of political geography, national identity, and cultural locality in the production of edible authenticity. Border wine regions such as Tokaj between Hungary and Slovakia, the Judean Hills and South Mount Hebron in Israel and Palestine, and the former Cold War buffer zone between Bulgaria and Greece illustrate the articulation of terroir as a story of border-crossing. Beyond the essentialization of terroir as “nature” and the contested politics of territory, I identify three formations of the terroir-territory connection: (a) territorialization of terroir, (b) terroir-ization of territory, and (c) colonial terroir expansion. In the case of “border wines” indexical strategies of boundary- and terroir-making highlight the creative agency and semiotic manipulation of winemakers across political territories.
http://gcfs.ucpress.edu/content/17/4/127

מפרסם ההודעה
------------------------- Daniel Monterescu Associate Professor Department of Sociology and Anthropology Central European University http://people.ceu.hu/daniel_monterescu http://ceu.academia.edu/DanielMonterescu/Papers New Books: Twilight Nationalism: Politics of Existence in at Life’s End (with Haim Hazan, Stanford UP) https://www.sup.org/books/title/?id=27593 Jaffa Shared and Shattered: Contrived Coexistence in Israel/Palestine http://www.iupress.indiana.edu/product_info.php?products_id=807546 New Articles: ״Border Wines: Terroir Across Contested Territory.” Gastronomica. Winter 2017. "Immobilizing Mobility: Border Ethnography, Illiberal Democracy, and the Politics of the 'Refugee Crisis' In Hungary" American Ethnologist (43:1, 2016, with A. Kallius and P. K. Rajaram) http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/amet.12260/full AE Virtual Issue: "Refugees and Im/migrants in American Ethnologist, 1991–2016" Guest-edited by Castañeda, Holmes, Kallius, and Monterescu https://goo.gl/i2tNlt בלוג הארץ: עיר שסועה לה יחדיו// Haaretz Blog: Cities Shared and Shattered Heb.: http://www.haaretz.co.il/blogs/danielmonterescu Eng.: https://www.haaretz.com/misc/writers/daniel-monterescu-1.513504
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